Preparation

On walls we fill corner and board joints with mortar, and mesh-tape them all. It seals the area and reinforces the structure, thus preventing cracks and leaks. We flatten uneven areas by filling low points and valleys with mortar.

Wood sub-floors get either a scratch coat, cement board or our favorite, a mud layer. Sometimes we need to install a membrane to prevent tile cracking, water leaks or sound propagation through the floor.

SCRATCH COAT — an expanded wire lath is nailed over the moisture barrier: either tar paper or "TYVEK" type of insulation. The wire is then coated with mortar, and when cured it is ready for layout and tile installation.

CEMENT BOARD — either 1/2" or 1/4" thick is glued and nailed to the sub-floor. For better results the boards need to be staggered and laid perpendicularly to the floor boards.

MUD (or dry-pack) — a layer of sand and Portland mix is well compacted and shaped to desired level. It goes over an expanded wire lath nailed over a moisture barrier. It is our favorite type of floor installation, the only right way to treat uneven surfaces or floors with radiant heat tubing. Layer of mud makes the sub-floor stronger and rigid. It also greatly enhances radiant heating performance by expanding the floor's heat capacity and by providing an even heat distribution. When done by us, it is the most even, flattest surface with the best bonding characteristics. It allows for the easiest and nicest tile installation. We have developed techniques to keep the mud thin, within 1/2" or less, and we have a way of doing it over uneven concrete floors as well. On bigger areas we use a laser level to guide us and keep the surface in check.